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Lijiang
An ancient town by a snow mountain home to ancient Naxi music
Among all the historical and cultural ancient towns in China, Lijiang is the only one that has no city walls. This, as legend goes, has something to do with Mu, of the ruling clan of Lijiang in the Ming dynasty. It is said that as his family name was Mu, if city walls were to be built around his city, then the Chinese character of Mu with a frame around it would take the place of another Chinese character, kun, which means "being besieged." It was considered inauspicious to encircle the city with a wall for this reason and as a result Lijiang remains without any. Mude, the chieftain of the Mu clan in the Ming dynasty, ruled with vision and open mindedness. Though deep in the mountains on the southwest, he went beyond the mountains to the capital of the Ming dynasty, instead of isolating Lijiang from the outside world. He was so struck with awe and admiration by the majesty of the Forbidden Palace and the culture of Central China that, upon his return to Naxi, he began to promote actively the introduction of manufacturing technology, culture, and education from Central China. He made friends with celebrities from Central China and recruited people with ability in agriculture, mineral exploration, and handicrafts from Central China to Lijiang. Another priority on Mude's schedule was to commission the construction of a palace, which resulted in an imperial palace resembling the one he saw in Central China. Inscribed on the screen wall at the gate of the palace was a line by Xu Xiake, the great traveller of the Ming dynasty, extolling the palace: "the magnificence of this palace parallels the majesty of a king."
Lijiang does not have a big town center and visitors roaming in the city may come across friends and people with familiar faces everywhere. More often, however, visitors will encounter water. The water, originating from thawing snow from mountains and glaciers, has been here for ages. Water from the Black Dragon Pool at the foot of Mount Xiangshan, to the north of the town, flows down from three rivers. They split into nine channels and further subdivide into numerous smaller streams that thread through the whole town. The streams are not wide, just 6-10 ft (2-3m) across. Willow tree branches hang low on both sides of the rivers to caress the streams. Green trees shade the streams as well as the houses beside the water. This ancient town in high land, surprisingly, assumes similar features to those of villages south of the Yangtze River, which are said to have "water flowing through and willows waving in front of every household." Streams, carrying with them the heart and soul of the snowy mountains, wash the streets and lanes, and the residences, day and night, and lend a gentle touch to the daily life of the people in the town. It can be said that water is the soul of this ancient town.
Ever since the time when people rode on horseback, Sifang Street has been the town center where dozens of shops huddle around a square. All sorts of commodities from else where are bought and sold here. From this small square that covers an area of about 4310 square feet (400 square metres), four main streets extend in four directions to reach the end of the town, crisscrossed by a labyrinth of streets and lanes. Such a layout was said to be the product of designers of the Mu clan in the Ming dynasty, who were inspired by the shape of the seal that belonged to the Mu clan. The square is not only where people from outside gather, but also seems to be the place where the daily life of local residents begins. The square is like an open market, a social place.
Sifang Street has been paved with coloured stones which came from the natural stone of the mountains around Lijiang. After being trampled thousands of times, their surface became clean and smooth and the stones became known as the Stones in Five Colours on account of the colours they reflect after being washed by rain. Most of the streets, like Sifang Street, were paved with these stones, which protect against both dust and water. Just as it has taken hundreds of years to make the street, it has taken hundreds of years for the history and culture of the town to develop.
Naxi ancient music is considered to be a living artefact of Oriental music. An orchestra of old men play the magic Naxi music in a hall where a Dayan Naxi Ancient Music Concert is held every evening. The youngest musician among them is over 70 years old, while the oldest is 90. Every year some members of the band pass away, and their photos are hung high on the crossbeam above the stage. The souls of these old men remain in Naxi ancient music for those still alive to practice it in their remaining years. Walking out of their houses late in the afternoon and making their way through the crowded town center to the stage, these old men are carried back by the tuneful melody of the ancient Naxi music to the best of times - or even further back to the history about which their fathers once told them.
Location
Lijiang is located on the northwest of Yunnan province, on the southern tip of the Qinghai-Tibet Plateau, 7870 ft (2400m) above sea level.
Climate
The area enjoys pleasant weather, with moderate temperatures in winter and summer.
Of Special Interest
The town has a unique culture and beautiful natural landscape, and was inscribed on the World Heritage List by UNESCO in 1997.
Main Attractions
The ancient town of Lijiang, Jade Dragon Snow Mountain, Hutiao Gorge, Wenfeng Temple, Black Dragon Pool, and more besides.
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