- China Trip Planner
Hangzhou
Onetime capital of the Southern Song dynasty
There's a popular road name that may be found in almost every big city in China: Zhongshan Road. No matter which Zhongshan Road you are on, you will get a sense of that city’s identity, its people, and its history. Hangzhou is no exception.
The Zhongshan Road in Hangzhou is the main urban street, about 4 miles (7km) long, crossing the whole city from north to south. Eight hundred years ago, it was officially named “Imperial Street”, and also called “Heavenly Street” by local civilians.
To the south of Hangzhou city is the famous Phoenix Hill, which is historically significant. Early in the Sui dynasty, the hill was chosen as the seat of the city's government. And later it was made the capital seat of Wuyue kingdom in the Period of Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms (907-960 AD). When the Southern Song dynasty established its capital here, the city was dramatically expanded and renovated into a heavenly palace, officially called Lin'an, which means “temporary peace”. Most of the capital was burnt down in the invasion by the Mongols under Kublai Khan.
Today, some ruins of imperial stone tablets can still be seen among the rocks of the hill, reminding us of the onetime prosperity of the city, of its majestic royal palace, of its mighty imperial army, and of the most luxurious and extravagant life of the emperor. But now, all the glory and splendor have gone with the wind, leaving almost nothing of the grandeur of long ago. However, the imperial spirit is still lingering at the tranquil hill.
The imperial palace offered everything one could wish for, even including a man-made “small West Lake.” But occasionally the emperor liked to go out to visit the authentic West Lake or to offer sacrifices to the gods in the Jingling Palace west of the city. As a result, the “Imperial Street” was built, starting from Hening Gate (the present Phoenix Hill Gate) at the north end of the Imperial Palace and leading to Tianshui Bridge in the north of the city. Build with stones and sand, the street was so well designed that it was still dry enough to travel along on rainy days.
In the first month of every season, the emperor, with his numerous guards of honour, would pass down the Imperial Street toward Jingling Palace. At that moment, all the shops had to be closed and all the civilians were ordered not to make any noise. The only sound was the rumbling of the wheels of the imperial carts on the stones. What a magnificent scene that must have been!
As the Imperial Street was specially renovated for the emperor, there was no civilian residence along the street, only shops and stores. All the civilians had to reside in Fang and Xiang (lands and alleys) behind those buildings. All the Fang, intersecting the Xiang, were laid out in proper order on the two sides of the Imperial Street. At present, Hangzhou boats more than seven hundred lanes, about two fifths of which were named early in the Song dynasty, and most of them have kept their names till now. Travelling from south to north along the street, one will occasionally come across those old lane names, such as “White Horse Temple Lane”. To read these names is to read the city’s history.
Now, near the middle of Zhongshan Road, the Drum Tower, also known as Chaotin Gate, is located. It is the only surviving city gate of ancient Hangzhou. During the Southern Song dynasty, the gate served as the boundary separating the Imperial Palace from the civilian residences. Outside the gate was the hustle and bustle of the marketplaces of the common people. A bit further to the north was the All Peace Bridge where the famous Xia Wa Zi (another name was Bei Wa), the biggest entertainment place in Hangzhou at the time, was located. There were more than a dozen theatres, in which many performers were constantly singing, performing plays, telling stories, and playing all kinds of musical instruments until midnight. Now the area attracts thousands of tourists every day.
At the time, the West Lake was known as a Xiao Jin Guo, which means “a most luxurious place.” And Hangzhou city, with its large population and prosperous commerce, flourished as the biggest urban concentration in the world. No wonder the Venetian explorer Marco Polo described it in his Travels as “the city of heaven” and “the finest and most splendid city in the world.”
Location
Hangzhou lies close to China’s southeast coast and is on the south wing of the Yangtze River delta.
Climate
Hangzhou features a favourable climate and four distinct seasons. The weather is generally warm and humid. Every March, spring comes and a variety of flowers are in bloom. And in September and October, you can enjoy the clear sky and fresh air of fall, another golden season.
Of Special Interest
As a city of historical and cultural importance, Hangzhou is not only the birthplace of Liangzhu culture, but was also the capital of the kingdom of Wuyue (907-909 AD) under the Five Dynasties (907-960) and then the national capital of the Southern Song dynasty (1127-1279). On account of this, it has been cited as one of the seven most important ancient capitals in China.
Main Attractions
Phoenix Hill, Dumb Tower, sites of imperial ancestral temples, and Southern Song Imperial Kiln Museum.
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