- China Trip Planner
Beijing Architecture
- Chongwen & Chaoyang
- The Forbidden City
- Layout
- Summer Palace Yiheyuan
- Old Summer Palace Yuanming yuan
- Xiang Shan Gongyuan
- Fragrant Hills Botanical Gardens
- The Great Wall
Chongwen & Chaoyang 
Tiananmen Square
For a macroscopic impression of the world's largest public square, head to the vast desert of pavement that is Tiananmen Square. It may be a grandiose, Maoist tourist trap, but there's more than enough space to stretch a leg and the view can be breathtaking, especially on a clear day. Kites flit through the sky, children stamp around on the paving slabs and Chinese out of-towners huddle together for the obligatory photo opportunity with the great helmsman's portrait.
The square is laid out on a north-south axis, like Chinese temples. The axis bisecting Tiananmen Square threads through Front Gate (Qian Men) to the south, is straddled by the Mao Zedong Mausoleum, is further marked by the Monument to the People's Heroes, cuts through the Gate of Heavenly Peace (Tiananmen) to the north, and cleaves through the Forbidden City (see the special section 'Forbidden City') spread out behind.
In the square, one stands in the symbolic centre of the Chinese universe. The rectangular arrangement echoes the Forbidden City, with halls and buildings to the east and west. In this way the square employs a conventional layout that pays obeisance to traditional Chinese culture, while its ornaments and buildings are largely Soviet-inspired.
Mao conceived the square to project the enormity of the Communist Party, so it's all a bit Kim I1-Sungish. During the Cultural Revolution, the chairman, wearing a Red Guard armband, reviewed parades of up to a million people here. In 1976 another million people jammed the square to pay their last respects to Mao. In 1989 army tanks and soldiers cut down pro-democracy demonstrators. More recently, members of the banned Falun Gong regularly brought their protests here, only to be bundled into waiting Public Security Bureau (PSB; Gongangju) vans. Despite being a public place, the square remains more in the hands of the government than the people, for it swarms with plainclothes police, waiting to paralyse the first twitch of dissent.
The Forbidden City
The spectacular Forbidden City, so called because it was off limits to commoners for 500 years, occupies a primary position in the Chinese psyche. To the Chinese, the Forbidden City (Zijin Chang; Tel 6513 2255; admission RMB40-60; open 8:30am-4pm daily May-Sept, 8:30am-3:30pm daily Oct-Apr) is a contradictory symbol: It's a politically incorrect yarn from a pre-revolutionary dark age, but it's also one spun from the very pinnacle of Chinese civilisation. It's not therefore surprising that more violent forces during the Cultural Revolution wanted to trash the place. Perhaps hearing the distant tinkle of the tourist dollar, Premier Zhou Enlai did the right thing by stepping in to keep the Red Guards at bay.
This gargantuan palace complex - the largest and best-preserved cluster of ancient buildings in China - was home to two dynasties of emperors, the Ming and the Qing, who didn't stray from their pleasure dome unless they absolutely had to. A bell jar dropped over the whole spectacle maintained a highly rarefied atmosphere that nourished its elitist community. A stultifying code of rules, protocol and superstition deepened its otherworldliness, perhaps typified by its twittering band of eunuchs. The rest of the land was governed from within these walls, until the 1911 revolution gate crashed the party, bringing with it last orders for the Qing dynasty.
Its bell jar shattered and its mystique diluted (the Beijing authorities insist on prosaically calling the complex the 'Palace Museum') - entry to the palace is no longer prohibited. In former ages the price for uninvited admission would have been instant death; these days RMB 40 will do.
There's no need to get press-ganged by the pushy tour guides clustering around the entrance, for you can get a personal introduction from Roger Moore (ex-007) instead. For RMB 30, rent a cassette tape for a self-guided tour narrated by Her Majesty's spy. Tape players are available free but you need to give a refundable RMB 200 as deposit - otherwise use your own Walkman instead. For tapes the (available in myriad languages) to make sense you must enter the Forbidden City from the south gate and exit from the north. Watch out for unscrupulous characters who will do their best to convince you that you must have an official guide to see the palace: It isn't true.
Don't confuse the gate of Tiananmen (Gate of Heavenly Peace) with the Forbidden City entrance. Some visitors purchase the Tiananmen admission ticket by mistake, not realising that this only admits you to the upstairs portion of the gate. To find the Forbidden City ticket booths, keep walking north until you can't walk any farther without paying.
Layout
The palace is so large (720,000 sq metres, 800 buildings, 9000 rooms) that a permanent restoration squad moves around repainting and repairing it. It's estimated to take about 10 years to do a full renovation, by which time they have to start repairs again. Allow yourself a full day for exploration, or perhaps several separate trips if you're an enthusiast. The information given here can only be a skeleton guide; if you want more detail then tag along with a tour group for explanations of individual arte- facts. Whatever you do, try not to miss the delightful courtyards, pavilions (and minimuseums within them) on each side of the main complex.
On the north south axis of the Forbidden City, from Tiananmen the south to Shenwumen to the north, lie the palace's ceremonial buildings.
Restored in the 17th century, Meridian Gate (Wumen) is a massive portal that in former times was reserved for the use of the emperor. Gongs and bells would sound imperial comings and goings, while lesser mortals used lesser gates - the military used the west gate, civilians the east gate. The emperor also reviewed his armies from here, passed judgment on prisoners, announced the New Year’s calendar and oversaw the flogging of troublesome ministers.
Across the Golden Stream, which is shaped to resemble a Tartar bow and is spanned by five marble bridges, is Supreme Harmony Gate (Tiananmen). It overlooks a massive courtyard that could hold an imperial audience of up to 100,000 people.
Summer Palace Yiheyuan
One of Beijing's most visited sights, the immense park of the Summer Palace (Yiheyuan; Tel 6288 1144; Yiheyuan, Haidian District; admission RMB20-40 Nov-Mar, RMB30-50 Apr-Oct; open 8:30am-5pm daily) deserves at least a day of your time.
Nowadays teeming with tour groups from all over China and beyond, this dominion of palace temples, gardens, pavilions, lake and corridors was once a playground for the imperial court. Royalty came here to elude the insufferable summer heat that roasted the Forbidden City. The site had long been a royal garden and was considerably enlarged and embellished by Emperor Qianlong in the 18th century. He deepened and expanded Kunming Hu with the help of 100,000 labourers, and reputedly surveyed imperial navy drills from a hilltop perch.
Anglo-French troops badly damaged the buildings during the Second Opium War (1860). Empress Dowager Cixi began a refit in 1888 with money earmarked for a modern navy, but the extravagant marble boat at the edge of the lake was her only nautical concession.
Foreign troops, incensed by the Boxer Rebellion, had another go at roasting the Summer Palace in 1900, prompting more restoration work. In 1949 there was a major overhaul, by which time the palace had once more fallen into disrepair.
Three-quarters of the park is occupied by Kunming Hu (Kunming Lake), and the most notable structures reside near the east gates or overlook from Wanshou Shan (Longevity Hill). The main building is the Hall of Benevolence and Longevity (Renshou Dian), by the east gate, which houses a hardwood throne and fronted with a courtyard decorated with bronze animals, including the mythical qilin (a hybrid animal that only appeared on earth at times of harmony). The hall, sadly, is barricaded off so you will have to peer in.
Along the northern shore, the Long Corridor (Chang Ling) is trimmed with a plethora of paintings, while the slopes and crest of Wanshou Shan behind are decorated with several temples. Slung out uphill on a north-south axis are Foxiang Ge (Buddhist Fragrance Pavilion) and Cloud Dispelling Hall (Paiyun Dian), connected by corridors. At the crest sits the Buddhist Temple of the Sea of Wisdom (Zhi Huihai), encapsulated with glazed tiles depicting Buddha; many, sadly, have had their heads obliterated.
The graceful 17-arch bridge spans 150m to Nahu Dao (South Lake Island) from the eastern shore of the lake. Cixi visited the island's Dragon King Temple (Longwang Miao) to beseech the temple's statue for rain in times of drought. You can traverse Kunming Hu by boat from the island to the northern shore where you can see Cixi's marble boat, north of which survive some fine Qing boathouses.
The Wenchang Gallery Tel 6288 1144 ex224; admission RMB 10: open 8:30am-4:30per daily) to the south of the entrance of the Summer Palace is a quiet escape from the hordes rampaging through the palace. The galleries, set in a clean and engaging pocket of reproduction Qing architecture, comprise a porcelain exhibition, a jade gallery and an unusual selection of Qing artefacts (including some of Cixi's calligraphy), plus some decent bronzes. Towards the North Palace Gate, Suzhou Jie is a fun diversion of riverside walkways, shops and eateries.
The park is about 12km northwest of the centre of Beijing. You can get there by taking the subway to Xizhimen station (close to the zoo), then a minibus or bus No 375. A number of other buses can get you to the Summer Palace, including bus No 303, 330, 332, 333, 346, 362, 801, 808 (from the Qianmen area) and 817. You can also get here by bicycle; it takes about 1.5 to 2 hours from the centre of town. Cycling along the road following the Beijing-Miyun Diversion Canal is pleasant, and in summer there's the option of taking a boat from the Exhibition Center near the zoo, which terminates at the Summer Palace. The boat departs from behind the Exhibition Center (Tel 6823 2179. 68213366) where it costs RMB 45/75 one way/return including Summer Palace ticket: the boat voyages via locks along the canal.
Old Summer Palace Yuanming yuan
Located northwest of the city centre, the original Summer Palace (Yuanming Yuan Tel 6262 8501; Northeast of the Summer Palace; admission RMB 10, for palace ruins RMB 15; open 7am-7pm daily) was laid out in the 12th century. Resourceful Jesuits were later employed by Emperor Qianlong to fashion European-style palaces for the gardens, incorporating elaborate fountains and baroque statuary. During the Second Opium War, British and French troops destroyed the palace and sent the booty abroad, where today pieces still occasionally surface at auction houses. Much went up in flames, but a melancholic array of broken columns and marble chunks remain.
Trot through the southern stretch of hawkers and arcade games to the more subdued ruins of the European Palace in the Changchun Yuan (Eternal Spring Garden) to the northeast. Alternatively enter by the east gate, which leads to the palace vestiges. The mournful composition of tumbledown palace remains lies strewn in a long strip; alongside are black-and-white photos displaying before and after images of the residence. It's here that you can find the Great Fountain Ruins, considered the best-preserved relic in the palace.
West of the ruins you can lose your way in an artful reproduction of a former labyrinth called the Garden of Yellow Flowers.
The gardens cover a huge area – some 2.5km from east to west - so be prepared for some walking. Besides the ruins, there's the western section, the Yuanming Yuan (Perfection and Brightness Garden) and the southern compound, the Wanchun Yuan (10,000 Spring Garden).
To get to the Old Summer Palace, take minibus No 375 from the Xizhimeng subway station. Minibuses also connect the new Summer Palace with the old one, or a taxi will take you for RMB 10.
Xiang Shan Gongyuan
Fragrant Hills Park
Easily within striking distance of the Summer Palace are the Xi Shan (Western Hills), another former villa-resort of the emperors. The part of Xi Shan closest to Beijing is known as Xiang Shan (Fragrant Hills: admission RMB 5: open 6am-7pm daily). This is the last stop for the city buses - if you want to get further into the mountains, you'll have to walk, cycle or take a taxi. You can either scramble up the slopes to the top of Xianglu Feng (Incense-Burner Peak) or take the chairlift for RMB 30/50 one way/return from 8:30am to 5pm daily. From the peak you get an all-embracing view of the countryside. From the summit you can hike further into the Western Hills and leave the crowds behind. Beijingers love to flock here in autumn when the maple leaves saturate the hillsides in great splashes of red.
Near the North Gate of Xiang Shan Gongyuan is the excellent Biyun Si (Azure Clouds Temple; Tel 6259 1155 ext 470; admission RMB10; open 8am-5pm daily), which dates back to the Yuan dynasty. It took a hammering during the Cultural Revolution and reopened in 1979. The Mountain Gate Hall contains two vast protective deities: 'Heng' and 'Ha'. Beyond is a small court- yard containing the drum and bell towers, leading to a hall with a wonderful statue of Milefo: it's bronze, but coal black with age. Only his big toe shines from numerous inquisitive fingers.
The next hall contains statues of Sakyamuni and Bodhisattvas Manjushri, Samantabhadra and Guanyin (Avalokiteshvara, plus 18 Luohan; a marvellous, golden carved dragon soars above Sakyamuni. A statue of Guanyin stands at the rear, atop fish.
The Hall of Bodhisattvas contains Wen shu, Guanyin, Dashizhi, Puxian and Dizang, plus other immortals. The Sun Yatsen Memorial Hall contains a statue and a glass coffin donated by the USSR on the death of Mr Sun.
At the very back is the marble Vajra Throne Pagoda, where Sun Yatsen was interred after he died and before his body was moved to its final resting place in Nanjing. The Hall of Arhats contains 500 Luohan statues.
Southwest of Biyun Si is the Tibetan- styled Zhao Miao (Temple of Brilliance), and not too far away is a glazed tile pagoda. Both survived a visit by foreign troops intent on sacking the area in 1860 and 1900. Less historic features of the park include an artificial ski slope.
If the climb took the stuffing out of you, it's possible to stay overnight at the park at the Fragrant Hills Hotel (Xiangshan Fandian; Tel 6259 1166, fax 6259 1762) near the main gate. The hotel was designed by the architect IM Pei, who also designed the definitive Bank of China Tower in Hong Kong.
There are a few ways to get to XiangShan Gongyuan by public transport: bus No 333 from the Summer Palace, bus No 360 from Belling Zoo, or bus No 318 from Pingguoyuan (the last stop west on the subway).
Fragrant Hills Botanical Gardens
The well-tended and clean botanical gardens (Tel 6259 1283; 2km east of XiangShan Gongyuan; admission RMB 15; open 6am- 8pm daily), set against the backdrop of Xi Shan, make for a pleasant outing among bamboo fronds, pines and lilacs. The Belling Botanical Gardens Conservatory (RMB 40), built in 1999, contains 3,000 different types of plants and a rainforest house.
Within the grounds and about a 15-minute walk from the front gate (follow the signs) is Wofo Si (Sleeping Buddha Temple Tel 6259 1561; admission RMB 5; open 8am-5pm daily). First built during the Tang dynasty, the temple's centrepiece is a huge reclining effigy of Sakyamuni weighing 54 tonne; it is said to have 'enslaved 7,000 people' in its casting.
On each side of Buddha are arrayed some sets of gargantuan shoes, gifts to Sakyamuni from various emperors in case he went for a stroll. Above him are the apt characters 'Zizai Dade', meaning, 'great accomplishment comes from being at ease'. Other halls include effigies of Milefo and Weituo, the Four Heavenly Kings, some Golden Buddhas and Guanyin. The temple is near the Magnolia Garden, which flowers profusely in spring.
On the eastern side of the gardens is the Cao Xueqin Memorial (Cao Xueqin Jinianguan; Tel 6259 1561 ext 2083; 39 Zhengbaiqi; admission free; open 8am-5pm daily), where Cao Xueqin (1715-63) lived in his latter years. Cao is credited with penning the classic Dream of the Red Mansions, a vast and prolix family saga set in the Qing period.
You can reach the Botanical Gardens on bus No 360 from the zoo, bus No 333 from the Summer Palace or bus No 318 from Pingguoyuan (the last stop west on the subway).
Ming Tombs
Shisan Ling
About 50km northwest of Beijing lies the final resting place of 13 of the 16 Ming emperors at the Ming Tombs (Shisan Ling; Tel 6076 1156/1334/1435; admission RMB 20 for each tomb; open 8am-5:30pm daily). The Confucian layout and design may intoxicate erudite visitors, but some find the necropolis lifeless and ho-hum. Confucian shrines lack the vibrancy and colour of Buddhist or Taoist temples, and their motifs can be bewilderingly inscrutable.
Open to the public are three renovated tombs - Chang Ling, Ding Ling and ZhaoLing. Chang Ling, with its series of grand halls, is the most impressive. Ding Ling contains a series of subterranean interlocking vaults, while Zhao Ling is reasonably tranquil. The rest of the tombs are in various stages of dilapidation and are sealed off by locked gates.
The road leading up to the tombs is a 7km stretch called the 'Spirit Way'. It starts with a triumphal arch, then goes through the Great Palace Gate, where officials once had to dismount, and passes a giant bixi (a tortoise-like animal), which bears the largest stele in China. This is followed by a guard of 12 sets of stone animals. Your tour-bus driver could well Doppler-shift past them (preferring to spend half an hour at the routine Shisanling Reservoir instead), so kick up a fuss to see them.
Other interesting features are the loos at the Ming Tombs. The toilets at Chang Ling must be the best in China outside of a five-star hotel. The English notice advising visitors to behave at Chang Ling is also peerless. It reads: 'No fight and scrap. No rabble, no feudal fetish and sexy service. After close, don't stay or sleep in the open. Just so you're in the know.
The Great Wall
Also known to the Chinese as the '10,000 Li Wall, the Great Wall (Changcheng) stretches from Shanhaiguan on the east coast to Jiayuguan in the Gobi Desert.
Standard histories emphasise the unity of the wall. The 'original' wall was begun 2000 years ago during the Qin dynasty (221-207 BC), when China was unified under Emperor Qin Shihuang. Separate walls, constructed by independent kingdoms to keep out marauding nomads, were linked. The effort required hundreds of thousands of workers, many of them political prisoners, and 10 years of hard labour under General Meng Tian. An estimated 180 million cubic metres of rammed earth were used to form the core of the original wall, and legend has it that one of the building materials used was the bodies of deceased workers.
The wall never really did perform its function as a defence line. As Genghis Khan supposedly said, 'The strength of a wall depends on the courage of those who defend it.' Sentries could be bribed. However, it did work very well as a kind of elevated highway, transporting people and equipment across mountainous terrain. Its beacon tower system, using smoke signals generated by burning wolves' dung, transmitted news of enemy movements quickly back to the capital. To the west was Jiyuguan, an important link on the Silk Road, where there was a customs post of sorts and where unwanted Chinese were ejected through the gates to face the terrifying wild west.
During the Ming dynasty a determined effort was made to rehash the whole project, this time facing it with bricks and stone slabs – some 60 million cubic metres of these. This project took over 100 years, and the costs in human effort and resources were phenomenal.
The wall was largely forgotten after that. Lengthy sections of it have returned to dust and the wall might have disappeared totally had it not been rescued by the tourist industry. Several important sections have been rebuilt, kitted out with souvenir shops, restaurants and amusement-park rides, and formally opened to the public. The most touristed area of the Wall by far is Beijing; a magnetic levitation train is already in the planning stages, complete with tourist hordes hovering in from Beijing. Also renovated but less touristed are Simatai and Jinshanling. The Jiaoshan section at Shanhaiguan (see Shanhaiguan in the Excursions chapter for details) is also worth seeing, but to truly appreciate its magnificence, seeing the Wall au naturel, such as at the Yellow Flower Fortress (Huanghua Chang Cheng), is well worth the effort.
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